Sunday, July 31, 2011

Déjà vu



I had a very surreal experience yesterday.  Déjà vu is an odd feeling, but it’s a common enough sensation to be unremarkable. It's something you appreciate for its novelty in the moment, but like a dream, it's soon forgotten. You realize it's just your brain playing tricks. What's truly shocking, is when you realize that the odd but otherwise dismissible experience is actually linked to a real memory, one long forgotten.

Yesterday I was visiting the beautiful Parc Monceau in the 8th arrondissement. I was appreciating the charm of this enclave of domesticated nature when I was stopped dead in my tracks. Déjà vu. I've been here before. I knew it, I was sure of it, but I was just as sure I hadn't been the last two times I was in Paris in 2007, or the time before that in 2001. Then it hit me. The last time I had been in this park I was three years old. Not only had I been here before, after 21 years I was standing on the sight of one of my earliest memories as a self aware creature. It was the fall of 1990, a thick veil of fog was hanging over the city of lights, and my mother, who was the age I am now, had taken me to play in this park. I still remember the way the broken colonnade of pillars disappeared into the mist rolling off the duck pond. I can even recall the outfit I was wearing.

I was left reeling from this shocking, yet seemingly inconsequential, encounter with the deepest recesses of myself. I stood their dumbfounded for a moment, the smell of wet grass and the faint reek of a Paris that was lingering in my mind. What did it mean to be here again after so long? I still don't know, but It makes me feel whole in a way. Like something of who we are, and have always been, persists and does not die under the weight of so many years. I still remember my yearning to be accepted by the older French children, enviously watching them ride their bicycles along the foggy promenades. I asked my mother whether it would be okay for us to go back home (to America) so I could get my tricycle and ride with the big-boys.

Am I still that little boy on the outside looking in? How much have I really changed? Have the joys, defeats, loves, accomplishments, and heartbreaks of the last two decades really made much of a difference? I think the answer is yes. I’m still fundamentally myself, but the long sting of circumstance and experience that lead me back to that spot have armed me with the tools to make the future I want for myself. Someday, when I have seized that future, I’ll complete the circle. On a brisk gray morning I will bring my own child to play in the gardens of the Parc Monceau and I will smile, knowing that one day they too will encounter themselves and realize that they are whole.

Thursday, July 28, 2011

The Road Less Traveled

Bois de Boulogne 1

One of the nicest things about an extended stay in a city abroad is having the luxury to take a step back from the tourist scramble. Wandering the streets without any particular aim, spending a few hours people watching in a café, or just taking a run through a park, are all enjoyable ways to experience a city through a different avenue than the major sights and monuments.

Bois de Boulogne 2
There is so much beauty to be found off the beaten track, and getting to know a city is like falling in love. The more you learn about her, the more you want to know. The major points of attraction are still grand and wonderful, but it's the personal experiences that make your memory, your relationship with the place, magical and distinct. My Paris is the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, and Notre Dame as much as it is for anyone else.  My Paris though, is also following the sound of music through twisting cobbled alleys, chasing a pair of green and red parrots through the Bois de Boulogne on my morning run, and eating hot crepes on a cold december night on the Boulevard Saint-Germain. This city deserves your love, and everyone deserves to find their Paris. As one American in Paris put it:


"There is never any ending to Paris and the memory of each person who has lived in it differs from that of any other"

-Hemingway
 

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Paris in Photos: Vol. 2

Strolling through the Jardin du Palais Royal

Remember the trees.

Soundtrack

Beings of light

Flowers, Stone, Sky

Panoramic 


Mushroom! Mushroom!


"Awesome." 
Tortured forms

Centre Pompidou 1

Centre Pompidou 2

Chrome

Tomb of the Liberators

Celestial Equestrian 

Empty out the sky

Tour de France

Inspired.

Paris is for lovers

St. Christopher's Inn
Stone and Scrollwork  

La Seine

Saints

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Hostel Territory: St. Christopher's Inn Paris

As a solo traveler, and as someone who doesn't speak the native language, knowing where to go out on a Saturday night in Paris can be a daunting task.  After feeling like a zombie for a few days due to a bad bout of jet lag I was ready to have fun and be social. After my positive experience at The 3 Ducks, I decided to try out another hostel bar. Using hostelworld.com again, I decided on St. Christopher's Inn in the 19th arrondissement. I was excited by it's 82% approval rating, one of the highest of any in Paris, although many reviews cautioned that it could be difficult for a solo traveler given its size made the atmosphere more impersonal.  

As far as Hostel's go, St. Christopher's and the Three Ducks couldn't be more different. The Three Ducks might be closer to the stereotypical idea of a hostel as a small, questionably sanitary, but otherwise fun sort of place young people stay while traveling abroad. At three hundred rooms St. Christopher's is closer to a small hotel than a hostel.

Walking in, I was impressed by the clean modern aesthetic and the inviting youth oriented atmosphere.  The bar was large and open; there was good music playing and, while busy, the place was full without feeling packed. I made my way to the bar and was able to get a pint quickly as there were five multilingual bartenders taking orders and serving drinks. Beer in hand, I scanned the room and immediately understood what others had found intimidating.  This wasn't a hostel bar; this was a bar that happened to be inside of a Hostel. I could see how a solo traveler might have felt like an outsider looking in. The volume level was high, and people were congregating in large groups. Determined to have a good time, I decided to pick the best looking group and just go for it. There was a group of about eight beautiful people gathered around a round table towards the back of the Bar. After making sure they were speaking English I put on my best smile, walked right up and filled the last gap around the table.


Going out by myself is a new experience for me; back in the states I've only ever gone out with at least one other person, but usually with a whole group of friends. I have discovered that the best way to instantly become everybody's new best friend, and to turn a bunch of mostly strangers into a group, is to offer to buy a round of drinks. After toasting to "new friends" with a round of jagerbombs I spent the next few hours joking and getting to know my new acquaintances.  As a side note, the fringe benefit of buying that first round is that it's kind of like an investment. You get to look really magnanimous, but then get to enjoy everyone practically tripping over themselves to repay that initial act of generosity.  I didn't have to buy another drink the whole night!

After some good laughs and interesting conversation, it was 2:00 a.m. and we were all kicked down stairs to the nightclub that I had no idea had been beneath my feet that entire time. While it didn't have any coherent theme that I could understand, the dance club was a lot of fun and better than most I've ever been to in the states. The DJ was actually playing good music, and the girls were beautiful. What more could you ask for?  
Tasteful Decoration: Check.  

I'll have to visit a few more hostels before I can really have some context, but for now I'm going to give St. Christopher's Inn a tentative A -. I had a great time, I would go back in a heartbeat, and I while I've gathered that it is more expensive than your average hostel, I would recommend it to anyone who is planning on visting Paris. As I have an affection for bad puns, I've decided to make "Hostel Territory" a reoccurring column on this blog where I'll relate my experience and rate the hostel, so stay tuned.

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Jet Lag: a poem

My head feels like a broken pot,
My eyes lidded in lead.
By day I shamble like the living dead;
At night I toss and turn upon my cot.
A cruel lover, Sleep teases me, tempting me to bed.
But when Sleep is sought, She wont be caught,
Nor bargained with, or bought.
The breaking dawn fills me with dread.
Caffeine fuels the brighter hours,
Though it leaves me fraying at the seams,
But wine appears to have lost its powers
To help me find the land of dreams.
Flying, I've outpaced my clock;
Man, it seems, was meant to walk.

- Christian

Paris in Photos: Vol. 1

Just some dead white male.
Arc de Triomphe 
Lonely Saint

Seal

Hail brothers and farewell you are
twice blest, brave hearts double your glory is who perished
 thus
For you have died for France and vindicated us
-Alan Seeger

Portal to a hidden realm

Caryatids 

Ancient Sentinel

Hail!

Metro

Jörmungandr

King Rat

Hands holding hands

Cafe

Beauty Eternal

Once Again

Deference 

Le Thé

Winged Victory

Death Mask

Le Pettit Palace is rather Grand 

Iron and flowers

Flag